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Keep Burgering On – Book review

 

Buy it from Amazon – by BENJAMIN ALDES WURGAFT
254pp. University of California Press. £23 (US $27.95).

PICTURE THE SCENE: shiny metal bioreactors lined up in rows, each at work building burgers from starter cells taken by biopsy from the muscles of cows. When cooked, the burgers will mimic traditionally produced hamburgers, while avoiding animal slaughter and agricultural damage to the environment: a food revolution for omnivores – and for cows. Food futurists and venture capitalists alike have invested in this striking high-tech vision.

In Meat Planet: Artificial flesh and the future of food Benjamin Aldes Wurgaft brilliantly sets hype against reality in the world of cultured meat, and considers what it means in the first place to believe that a food system can be revitalized by technology. Between 2013 and 2018, Wurgaft visited some of the science laboratories, think tanks and not-for-profit start-ups working to make artificially grown meat viable. According to its champions, the promise of cultured meat is considerable. It could, Wurgaft summarizes, “utterly transform the way we think of animals, the way we relate to farmland, the way we use water, the way we think about population and our fragile ecosystem’s carrying capacity of both human and nonhuman animal bodies”.

But when will such meat become the norm? How soon will it be affordable? Ever since a much-hyped event in London in 2013, when the Dutch physician and physiologist Mark Post unveiled a single labgrown burger, cooked by a chef and served in all its pinkish glory to a panel of three tasters, these questions have been paramount among journalists and investors. (Post’s project was funded by the Google co-founder and billionaire Sergey Brin at a cost of around $300,000.) Wurgaft elects instead to observe developments through prisms such as “pro-mise”, “hope” and “doubt”, dedicating a chapter to each. He draws a parallel between the expectations of would-be consumers of culturedmeat and those of medical patients awaiting new therapies – which, just like this meat production, sometimes make use of stem cells. “The patients feel keenly the gap between the actual and the possible”, he notes. During the five years of Wurgaft’s research, the meat “was a glittering object in the media, but a holographic one, without solidity”. Change is on the horizon; according to industry predictions, production costs may dwindle to as little as $3-4 per pound by the end of this year. Meanwhile, the doppelgänger of Post’s original burger sits behind glass at the Boerhaave Museum of the History of Science and Medicine in Leiden in the Netherlands – a hope for the future, now preserved as the past.

Doubt nudges against hope, because obstacles remain to scaling up production. Currently, the typical growth medium for lab meat is foetal bovine serum, the use of which animal activists and vegans object to perhaps even more strenuously than to the use of starter cells. Using cells from animals’ umbilical cords is an alternative method under exploration which may circumvent the ethical objection, though the viability of that idea – or of others, such as 3D-printed meat, unmentioned by Wurgraft but touted by technology companies – is hard to know. Other problems persist. The layered muscle of certain meats (such as steak) is more complicated to replicate in three dimensions; the bioreactors required would need “vasculature of some kind”, “artificial blood vessels and veins”.

Doubt seeps through in less straightforward ways, too. Wurgaft deconstructs a six-minute video that accompanied Post’s glitzy event, focusing particularly on the atavistic rhetoric of the anthropologist Richard Wrangham’s narration. Images of spearcarrying Africans, generic through lack of context, are accompanied by Wrangham’s lofty theorizing about the centrality of meat-eating in human evolution. “This”, says Wurgaft, “is a pitch about the future that believes it also needs the past.” (Wurgaft “chokes a little” on hearing Wrangham refer to modern humans’ “Paleolithic minds”, and deploys the word “offensive” precisely where it is needed.) The book is stronger for Wurgaft’s choice, as a carnivore, to write about his own behaviour, actions and thoughts. He experiences alternating hope and doubt, cycling “like the moon” as his research goes on. The goal of the study, like that of all good field ethnography, is to “leave more questions than answers on the page rather than impose a narrative line upon disparate images”. (By contrast, culturedmeat enthusiasts tend to push a “breathless” celebratory story.) Wurgaft has a seemingly uneasy relationship with food: “I view my own carnivory as a sign of my moral imperfection”. He dismisses any moral philosophical argument for meat-eating as “a fig leaf meant to preserve my gastronomic convenience”.

Here, animal activists might let out a heavy sigh. For many people, there are, increasingly, ready alternatives to meat – the fig leaf needn’t factor at all. Wurgaft cites Peter Singer’s utilitarian perspective, which asserts that it is “unclear which animals, if any, know that they have personal futures”. If an animal has no concept of the future, so the theory goes, our killing of him or her is fair. By contrast, humans not only envisage a future – we want to be strong and ready for it. And yet I would note that animal-behaviour science contests this claim of human exceptionalism. Research reveals that individuals of other species from apes to birds remember the past (consider those that grieve for dead companions or experience trauma in the present because of past bad experiences), as well as anticipating the future. To give one example, in 1997 a chimpanzee in a Swedish zoo made headlines when it was discovered that he was stockpiling rocks in the morning to hurl later in the day at gawking visitors.

Wurgaft concludes that utilitarianism “appeals to those who dislike moral ambiguity and to those who focus on outcomes”. He does not, then, appear to buy into Singer’s argument. Still, at the book’s end, Wurgaft describes his “favorite” idea unearthed during research: In a city, a neighborhood contains a yard, and in that yard there is a pig, and that pig is relatively happy. It [sic] receives visitors every day, including local children who bring it [sic] odds and ends to eat from their family kitchens Each week a small and harmless biopsy of cells is taken from the pig and turned into cultured pork, perhaps hundreds of pounds of it. This becomes the community’s meat. The pig lives out a natural porcine span, and I assume it [sic] enjoys the company of other pigs from time to time.

The fantasy is rooted in a project called “Varkenshuis” (Pig House), trialled in Dutch neighbourhoods. It raises some concerns. Were that backyard pig to be gifted with verbal language, what might she say about Wurgaft’s insistence that our food systems are political as much as technological constructs? Would she ask to be seen as part of that political system, so that a future world of cultured meat might not only refuse to slaughter her, but might also allow her some autonomy? Sprinkled through Meat Planet are mentions of science-fiction narratives. Wurgraft notes for instance that sci-fi films can shape a generation’s expectations for technology. It’s possible that cultured meat will remain in that realm, he says. If it does: “Let it perform the classic function of the best science fiction by serving as a mirror on the present”. One thing already reflected back is how severely limited is our imagination regarding animals’ lives.

Precisely as Wurgaft intended, Meat Planet invites broader thinking. He could not have anticipated that readers might encounter the book in a time of global pandemic, when we may feel extra urgency to rethink our handling and consumption of animals, some of whom, in the extreme, might even harbour viruses ready to infect us. It’s a time, too, when inequalities in access to essential goods and services loom ever larger. “What if the solution lies not in producing more,” Wurgaft asks, “but in needing less, and in the more just distribution of what we already produce?”

Barbara J. King is an anthropologist emerita at William & Mary, in Virginia. Her most recent book is Personalities on the Plate: The lives and minds of animals we eat, 2017

 

Oafish neighbour is not a chef. Or is he?

 
When pigs walk

When pigs walk

Watch out! In the topsy turvy, “disruptive,” 21st century, a new app called Trybe is suggesting that all of us are chefs! Yes, all of us!

Finnish duo Leo Wuoristo and Ilkka Sako designed the app for home cooks. Trybe links them up with the paying public via the medium of the cellphone.

That’s right. You know your next door neighbour -yes the one who never takes the rubbish out and who watches T.V. really loud till 2am- he is in fact a Trybe chef.

Okay I’ll admit that it’s good for people to be able to earn a living from home, especially when many have been systemically excluded from the job market, but isn’t being a chef all about quality and technique and will Trybe provide this?

If everyone’s a chef then no one is a chef and what’s the difference between a restaurant and someone’s house?

Burnt pizza, over-salted everything, wet salad, raw meat and poor ingredients- that’s what.

For me quality is the major issue.

If Trybe can overcome this – by assuring that the quality is good and that the word chef is still synonymous with a higher level of cooking – then perhaps pigs fly and perhaps my next door neighbour makes the best boeuf bourguignon in town.

Perhaps.

www.trybe.com for more information

 

Claude Bosi jumps from Hibiscus to Bibendum

 
Bosi the Boss

Bosi the Boss

Flailing chef Claude Bosi has just shuttered his Hibiscus restaurant in Mayfair and taken on another basket case.

Once boasting the best steak frites outside France, Bibendum in Chelsea was described by then director Simon Hopkinson as daring to be continental, Bibendum is now closed for another revamp as Bosi tries to rethink it amid Brexit insecurities.

Bibendum acts as a metaphor for changing sentiments in Britain.It was opened in 1987 during the first year of Nigel Lawson’s Big Bang, and seemed with its blue stained glass windows and a relaxed European eating environment to represent a more internationalist looking London.

That was the Boom. Then we had the Bust. And now the Brexit.

Owner Sir Terence Conran has decided it’s time for a rehash and has chosen Claude Bosi to fill the bill.

 

Bosi first set up shop in Ludlow and then moved the Hibiscus franchise to Mayfair.

Talking about his first experiences of London and Bibendum he said: “The first time I came I picked up the Michelin guide and looked where to eat. And I saw this restaurant called Bibendum. I thought wow! You have to be pretty desperate to get a Michelin star to call your restaurant that!  I didn’t know any of the history.” (Bibendum is the name of the Michelin Man in French). 

In possibly a last roll of the dice for the iconic restaurant and for himself, Bosi has now closed the doors at Hibiscus and decided to work in that very same restaurant.

Although Hibiscus was highly acclaimed in both Ludlow and Mayfair, Bosi laments that the ‘lights out neighbourhood’ could not support his restaurant.

The magnificent Bibendum building on Fulham Rd

The striking Bibendum building on Fulham Rd

Conran has faith in Bosi saying he is full of the “confidence, personality and vision” that Bibendum needs to reinvigorate its former glory.

“I want a roast chicken on the menu, a different flavour for each season,” said Bosi. “Wwe are having a rotisserie put on the carvery. We are going to have tripes lyonnaise – my mother used to make a wonderful tripe and cuttlefish gratin, which I am revising a little bit

Bosi admits that his cooking was once about showing off and being flamboyant, but he is now more concerned with good eating and this should fit in perfectly with Bibendum’s ethos.

Conran’s original vision was to create a relaxed atmosphere with good food where people could “come with their kid or with their wife as for a business meeting”.

Mr Michelin biking around the inside of Bibendum restaurant

Mr Michelin biking around the inside of Bibendum restaurant

Now the world awaits as we see just what Bosi and Conran will conjure out of the darkness.

 

Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RD; bibendum.co.uk

 

What do we eat at home?

 
cheese on toast

Lee & Perrins? No need

In the pub after a hard day’s work, more often than not if people find out our profession- their first question is- “well what do you eat at home?” I’ve heard this one a lot.

Like some kind of weird human fascination that seeks to bring us down from the level of fine cooking, they secretly all want to hear us say ‘microwave lasagne’ or ‘Fray Bentos’. Almost like the unbeliever’s joyous excitement when finding their local priest in a strip club.

It’s true though. Sometimes when cooking is your day job, the last thing you want to do when you get home is fire up the oven and start chopping onions.

At the same time, sometimes it can be easy to disassociate the work space from the home space.  Work is all about bright lights, loud noises and industrial sized everything. Home is calm with soft lighting and wooden surfaces.

Put on some music, glass of red wine and you’re off.

And that’s just at work! (Got you there).

Personally I go for something simple but tasty like bruschetta with some olives, or just a quick and easy stir fry.

When talking to friends, cheese on toast (perhaps with a bit of lee and Perrins) seems to be a strong contender.

So it’s not always microwave lasagne, but there are some things about chefs eating habits that I usually refrain from telling the heathens.

According to a survey by foodnetwork we chefs are pickier than you think. Only 15% of chefs say they would eat most anything. Apparently the top things that chefs hate the most are: liver, tofu, sea urchin, aubergine and oysters.

But there you go, we are human after all!

What is your go-to home dish? Let us know below!

 

 

 

 

 

 

DIY restaurant for catering school dropout

 

“My dream was always to be a chef and be a part of a kitchen but I also always wanted to follow my own entrepreneur ambitions.”

 

Meet Max Aynsley-Rigden, a 22-year-old catering school dropout who found his own path to follow his dreams. He is Head Chef and joint owner of Burgers @ N8, specialising in house styles of gourmet burger, tucked into a disused car park off Crouch End Broadway.

Starting at 17-years-old, Max worked for free in local bistros and cafes to gain experience and skill.After going through the motions at Southgate Catering College for a year, he decided to invest in his own entrepreneurial aspirations and take cooking head on. He attached himself to inspiring chefs at the Hempel Hotel where he worked for 2 years and then Connaught hotel for just under two years whilst building himself up.

What is most remarkable about his trendy kitchen is that it is entirely made up of recycled materials. The infrastructure itself is 5 shipping containers welded together and inside recycled wood furnishing makes for a cosy canteen.

But not all loved his idea from the jump, Max describes the process of getting permission from the council to use the empty site in which his restaurant now proudly sits upon as “a lot of jumping through hoops” and it took over a year to get it all sorted.

It was all worth it though as he states “it was a beautiful idea to be able to think about making something out of something that has been nothing for ten years”.

Long-term goals are said to build a franchise and have ‘Burgers @’ popping up in postcodes all over London soon, but the idea is to keep the separate restaurants independent. Buying only from local suppliers so the restaurant “benefits the people and the area” it is placed in. Take the private tour of the makeshift restaurant and watch Max prepare his burgers here.

 

Our guide to the Catering industry

 
You can be one of them

You can be one of them

The industry employs around two million people in half a million restaurants, cafes and catering outlets across the UK.

From hotdog stands to elite hotel restaurants, there are jobs on offer to suit all levels, whether it’s junior chefs and kitchen staff or waiters, senior managers and company directors.

And the even better news is industry experts predict 660,000 new workers will be needed in the next five years to support the existing workforce.

 

THE PAY

  • Trainee (commis) chef: £13,000- £15,000 per year
  • Section chef (chef de partie): £14,000-£18,000
  • Second chef (sous chef): £17,000-£23,000
  • Head chef (chefs de cuisine): £25,000-£35,000
  • Executive head chef: £40,000-£50,000-plus

 

THE JOBS

At fish4jobs.co.uk there are 1,170 catering jobs and 307 chef roles including a catering supervisor in Leeds (£14,904 to £16,967), a gastro pub sous chef in Northop in Flintshire (£20,000 to £23,000) and a bank catering assistant in Haywards Heath in West Sussex (£7.32 per hour).

We found 16,289 chefs and 2,566 general catering roles at gov.uk/jobsearch ranging from a catering aide in Sheffield (£8.30 per hour) and a team leader in Telford in Shropshire (£7) to a chef in Coventry (£7 to £9) and a pizza chef in Bishopton, Renfrewshire (£7.50 to £8).

Another place to search is caterer.com, which has 15,513 jobs including a restaurant managership in Abingdon, Oxfordshire (£25,000) and a chef de partie in Lancashire (£17,000).

At hospitalityguild.co.uk we spotted 4,183 opportunities such as a grill chef in London (competitive) and kitchen manager (competitive) in Scarborough.

Incatering (incatering.co.uk) has 755 jobs including head chef in Dorchester in Dorset (£25,000 to £26,000) and kitchen manager in Glasgow (£19,000 to £21,000).

At jobs.thecaterer.com, there are a further 1,206 jobs including a catering assistant in Edinburgh (£8), a catering manager in Stafford (£16,000), a regional manager for a large catering firm in Manchester (£25,000) and a chef in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire (£20,000).

At apprenticeships.gov.uk there are 1,171 chef apprenticeships and 426 catering roles.

And of course don’t forget to check out our own Jobs section!

 

THE TRAINING

Once you’re working in a kitchen, you will receive on-the-job training and work under the supervision of experienced staff. Your employer may encourage you to take further qualifications, such as a Level 3 (NVQ) Diploma in Professional Cookery, a Level 3 Award in Supervising Food Safety in Catering and a Level 3 (NVQ) Diploma in Hospitality Supervision and Leadership.

Some of these qualifications give you the option to specialise in particular types of regional cookery – Chinese, Indian and Thai.

There are also many private training academies offering a range of specialist professional development courses and qualifications, such as the Level 4 Diploma in Professional Culinary Arts.

Find out more from Springboard’s careers site at careerscope.uk.net and the National Careers Service at nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk.

Many employers and training providers offer structured programmes with work placements which let you earn while you learn. Visit apprenticeships.gov.uk and training providers City & Guilds (cityandguilds.com) and Lifetime Training (lifetimetraining.co.uk).

 

 

 

Selin Kiazim opens her own restaurant

 
Selin Kiazim

Selin Kiazim

Selin Kiazim is a chef who is not short of ambition. At 20, she promised herself she would open a restaurant before she was 30; at 25, she made it her aim to revolutionise Turkish cuisine in Britain; now, at 29, she wants her restaurant, Oklava, which opens later this month, to be one of the best in London. All of the above may well come true.

For many in Britain, Turkish food is synonymous with dips, kebabs and grilled meat; Kiazim has proved it can be otherwise. Her take replaces hearty and greasy with delicate and inventive — spicy lamb breast lavash with fennel seed and sour cherry dressing; tiny, fluffy courgette and feta fritters with sour cream; chilli roast cauliflower. Seven years ago, her cooking caught the attention of Peter Gordon, the “father of fusion”, who gave her a job at Providores in Marylebone. Several of her creations made it onto the menu, an extraordinary feat for a junior chef. When Gordon opened Kopapa in Covent Garden, another fusion restaurant, he took Kiazim with him. She left in March 2013. “I loved working at Kopapa and was doing well,” she says, “but I had to keep pushing on.”

Kiazim decided she would make Turkish cooking her thing. “My parents are Turkish-Cypriot. This was the food I grew up with. We used to make amazing spiced lamb and bulgur-wheat kofta with confit garlic yoghurt at home. The wheat would be the casing and we’d deep-fry it and serve it with a knockout salad. I loved all this food and I thought, ‘No one else knows about it, but they really should.'”

Having devised a menu in 2013 showcasing a modern melding of Turkish and Mediterranean cuisines, Kiazim did a six-month residency at Trip Kitchen in east London. Customers and critics were blown away: “Dishes that have the potential to change lives,” Giles Coren wrote. “I began to fantasise quietly about hiring Kiazim as my personal chef,” wrote critic Grace Dent of a later residency of Kiazim’s. This was all the encouragement Kiazim — and her private investors — needed to set up on her own. Oklava is a small, triangular restaurant off Old Street, with roughly 40 covers. The food, naturally, will be modern Turkish. “People can take modern the wrong way,” she says. “I’m not doing whacky molecular things, I’m just modernising Britain’s Turkish food. Food in Turkey is diverse and rich. I keep learning more and more about it, and that’s my inspiration.” We can’t wait. In the meantime, try her mushroom omelette recipe, right.

– Francesca Angelini

Oklava is opening soon at 74 Luke Street, London EC2 – www.oklava.co.uk

 

 

Prison Cook gets compensated after severe accident

 
Cook Susan Cox

Cook Susan Cox

A PRISON cook will receive more than £100,000 in compensation after an inmate dropped a 25kg (55lb) sack of rice on her back.

Susan Cox, 46, has suffered severe spinal pain since the 2007 accident, which left her unable to work.

The mother of one sued the Ministry of Justice for failing to keep her safe while working as a catering manager at Swansea Prison. Bosses at the jail claimed the accident was not their fault – but as they were paying the prisoner to work in the kitchens, a judge ruled they were liable.

‘The Ministry of Justice took the benefit of this work and I can see no reason why it should not take its burden,’ Lord Justice McCombe said at the Court of Appeal.

 

 

An unhealthy row: report claiming organic food is better divides UK scientists

 

Fresh research claiming organically grown food is healthier than conventional crops has provoked a row between scientists.

The study, carried out by scientists at Newcastle University, concluded that organic crops are up to 70 per cent richer in key antioxidants and significantly lower in harmful heavy metals.

Researchers concluded that switching to an organic diet would provide an antioxidant boost equivalent to one to two extra portions of fruit and vegetables a day. Their findings were, however, severely criticised by other scientists.

The study was welcomed by Helen Browning, the chief executive of the Soil Association, as “crucially important” in demonstrating that organic food is healthier than non-organic. “It shatters the myth that how we farm does not affect the quality of the food we eat. The research found significant differences, due to the farming system, between organic and non-organic food,” she said.

Professor Carlo Leifert, led the research, which he said demonstrates organically-certified food can improve intake of “nutritionally desirable” antioxidants. “The organic versus non-organic debate has rumbled on for decades now but the evidence from this study is overwhelming – that organic food is high in antioxidants and lower in toxic metals and pesticides,” he said.

Researchers reached their conclusions after analysing data from 343 studies assessing the differences between organic and non-organic fruit, vegetables and cereals. The findings contradict those of a smaller study in 2009 commissioned by the Food Standards Agency (FSA) which found no significant nutritional benefits from eating organic food.

Dr Gavin Stewart, one of the authors of the new report, said: “The much larger evidence base available in this synthesis allowed us to use more appropriate statistical methods to draw more definitive conclusions regarding the differences between organic and conventional crops.”

The study found that concentrations of antioxidant plant compounds such as polyphenolics were 18 per cent to 69 per cent higher in organically grown plants.

Several scientists, however, launched scathing attacks on the research which they said was flawed and misleading.

Dr Alan Dangour, of the London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine, was critical of the quality of some of the data used by the researchers and said: “The public health significance of the reported findings have been worryingly overstated. There is no good evidence to suggest that slightly greater antioxidant or polyphenolic intake in the human diet has important public health benefits.”

Professor Tom Sanders, of King’s College London’s School of Medicine, said the study, published in the British Journal of Nutrition, was misleading. He said: “This article is misleading because it refers to antioxidants in plants as if they were a class of essential nutrients, which they are not. The article misleadingly suggest health benefits result from a high consumption of antioxidants, particularly cancer protection.

“This study provides no evidence to change my views that there are no meaningful nutritional differences between conventional produced and organic crops.”

Professor Richard Mithen, of the Institute of Food Research, said: “The references to ‘antioxidants’ and ‘antioxidant activity’, and various ‘antioxidant’ assays would suggest a poor knowledge of the current understanding within the nutrition community of how fruit and vegetables may maintain and improve health.”

 

Governments agree to rein in veterinary drugs in food

 

Governments have agreed new food standards calling for zero residue of veterinary drugs in meat, and limiting lead pollution in infant formula and toxins in maize, a UN body said Tuesday.

The Codex Alimentarius Commission — the top global decision-making body for food standards — made a raft of recommendations at its ongoing annual meeting in Geneva, Angelika Tritscher, the UN’s food safety coordinator, told AFP.

While often complex, the decisions of the 186-nation commission run by the World Health Organization and the Food and Agriculture Organization have real meaning on the ground.

“They really impact on the food we buy in the store and that we eat,” said Tritscher.

The body said it was time to ensure that no traces of eight veterinary drugs — chloramphenicol, malachite green, carbadox, furazolidone, nitrofural, chlorpromazine, stilbenes and olaquindox — make their way onto consumers’ plates via meat, milk, eggs or honey.

“If you have residues of these compounds in food, then there’s real concern for human health,” said Tristcher.

“There’s been a long discussion about the recommendation that we can give. It’s basically to ensure that you don’t have residues of these eight veterinary drugs in food. None at all,” she said.

“It’s a very important step.”

“The recommendations still have to be put into national law. Countries have to control and, if necessary, pull a product off the market,” Tritscher explained.

The targeted drugs include antimicrobials. Their occurence in food is compounding concerns about human misuse of antibiotics and poor hospital hygiene, blamed for the rise of killer superbugs.

– Do everything possible –

The commission’s decision on infant formula aims to slash lead pollution, which occurs as a result of environmental contamination, for example during the manufacturing process.

“Lead affects a baby’s brain development. And infant children are of course more sensitive to it. That’s why it’s important to try to do everything possible to reduce exposure,” said Tritscher.

The commission previously recommended a limit of 0.02 milligrammes of lead per kilo of formula, but cut that to 0.01 milligrammes.

“Now it’s up to the manufacturers that buy material when they produce infant formula to buy the cleanest material so that they can achieve this limit,” said Tritscher.

The commission’s action on maize — or corn, in North America — targets fumonisins.

They are toxins produced by mould that can grow on maize in the field or after harvesting, notably due to humidity, inadequate storage and insect damage.

Some fumonisins have been found to cause liver or kidney damage, and even lead to cancer.

“It’s the first time that a standard has been set for these types of toxins,” said Tritscher.

“Since maize is a very important staple food in many countries, it’s very important to set a limit for these toxins, for human health.”

The commission recommended a maximum of four milligrammes of fumonisins per kilo of raw maize, and two milligrammes per kilo of maize flour.